LAGOS FASHION & DESIGN WEEK DAY 1 || A CRITICAL VIEW

Socio cultural tool, language, culture and passion are words associated with fashion in and out of Nigeria.

All these could be said to be true during the just concluded Lagos Fashion and Design Week.

I watched a lot of people dressed proudly in what they considered the best way to depict their style, story and their voices.

Lagos Fashion and Design week 2015 the brainchild of Omoyeni Akerele of stylehausfiles commenced on Wednesday the 28^th at the federal palace hotel in Victoria Island.

The fifth edition of something that feels so much like yesterday.

I remember walking down Eko hotel on their second show looking through the well curated displays at the corridor that led into the hall.

The first day should have been different in a most positive way but it wasn’t I have started to feel like they are relaxing as a show slated for 5.30pm started at 8pm. This is becoming a trend and that for me is simply unprofessional.

By the time the last designer showed only the fashion lovers who meant business like I or the ones who came to support their favourite designers or friends were still sitting, the hall filled with so many people who felt extremely important to be part of such a huge show stopping event was almost empty.

I have to commend the structure however, the press sits, the lighting, the music and the external overall production was a win, and I only wish that next time they will do what they can on time so their appraisal would be as befitting as all that they obviously put into the show.

Moving on, I have to say that the words that best described Day one’s show is AFRICAN PRINTS REDEFINED and thankfully we are exploring the aso-oke and adire fabrics even more now and keeping the ankara fabrics for our numerous owambe parties.

The overall collections gave me the feel that most of the designers weren't trying to find their voices as they all showed a very commercial collection that seemed highly influenced by the so many road side tailors; they were serving us basic aesthetics as opposed to defining what turn we should take next.

Tiffany Amber opened the show, hers is a breath taking easy collection, full of prints, metallic colours, big sleeves that remind me so much of 2009, off shoulder details that spanned across the other designer's collections with the little x-factor detail and flowy dresses with cute front and back slits.

My favourite were the off shoulder shirts, I would totally rock that piece if I could afford it.

For tiffany Amber, I liked that her piece was centered and inspired by Lagos because that’s the only way I could understand the collection, I could sense the easiness that has come to be a part of the style of Lagosians, the fluidity of the fabrics and the light texture that we need to embrace as the weather can get really hot.

However I wanted more in terms of design, I craved for more but maybe she was going for the less is more effect.

Re Bahia (now Re I presume)

When you have seen a beautiful Last collection with great details then you understand the capability of a designer and come ready for them to stun you.

However, in between all the chiffon and aso-oke pieces in pastel candy colours, I wasn't so sold.

I loved the art on the jacket and the pants and I wished she explored that more to give us something that would sit at the back of our heads and keep us waiting for the next season.

The Art meets fashion trend especially in Nigeria seems so two season back but I must confess that I liked the art that looked like a bug, the wide leg pants as well and the wide sleeves. The off shoulder and boob tube trend was also dominant in this collection.

My favourite piece is definitely the pants with the frilled details on the side.

Four of The fashion focus finalist showed next,

Zapel served us a sporty collection made of Adire, I liked how she broke the boundary of being usual and understood how much market we are yet to explore. I loved the side detail pants as well.

Onwuchukwu made me realize how many Nigerian male designers are yet to explore Tunics as he had amazing print mix with colours and pattern in Jersey fabrics. I couldn't take my eyes off the embroidery 'leaf pattern' detail on the tunics.

Luvita seemed not to have moved in from the ankara era as she served us a variety of pieces that didn't seem to merge but I love the x-factor dress.

P.O.C had us waiting for the design as every piece seemed liked the last one, the repetition of designs seemed like a bad joke but I have to give him credit for having a uniformed monochrome tunic collection.

The last year fashion focus Designers followed with Omilua continuing the aso oke trend, the big sleeves and frills, off shoulders and x factor trend. I loved the frilled matchy set and sincerely do prefer her last collection to this.

Maxivive has always been artsy and its good to see that it still holds up this season, playing with texture and volume while creating a wearable menswear collection.

There was a DIY touch using pant/ trouser details on jackets, throwing in something for the rain and generally serving us a well curated collection for those who like to stand out.

Mo' Fari was all about embellishments, she had a bridal gown open her show and another one close it. She played with colours ranging from hot pink, yellow and turquoise.

Most of her pieces were corporate, work pieces with big sleeves, structure and capes. However, they seemed to be very basic and usual.

Sophie Zinga had an array of mostly white and off white pieces sprinkling a bit of blues and oranges.

I like how the white tones looked especially the ones she embellished with cowries, fur, fringes and the way she used mixed fabrics ranging from cotton to sheer, net and scuba fabric to achieve her designs. The crop tops and wide leg pants were also redefined in this collection.

Grey for me is a ready to wear line but when I get the opportunity to watch them at fashion week I am always stunned. Their collection can be summed up with the word redefinition, because they have managed to once again redefine the idea of wardrobe basics. The prints they used were obviously carefully selected having the average fashion lover in mind. Nothing too loud and nothing too ordinary. The prints, shirt sleeves, bow details, front pockets, frills, fringes all come together in this collection to present what every girl wants. The pieces were nicely finished and well-tailored as well.

Kinabuti is not your usual Nigerian designer, I’m sure you already know this. They curated a sporty collection for their proposed clients and customers. I love how they used tie and dye prints on jersey fabric to create not just the outfits but the accessories as well. The long sleeves and slits was also a very good detail in this collection.

Kenneth Ize and his super long sleeves have convinced me that it’s a must try trend for 2016, that is right after I try his unfinished hems detail in androgynous looks.

Playing with white, blue and red, he created a rugged collection with clean almost minimal lines that I loved using aso oke fabric as well. He confirms what I have been saying about the androgyny trend being here to stay. I also love that he kept to his design aesthetics in this nicely curated collection.

Amede continued with the predominant adire trend in flowy dresses, kaftans and girly pieces.

Design wise however I wish they had done more instead of relying on the fabrics to do all the work.

Funke Adepoju’s collection came across to me as one inspired by a blooming/burning forest as her colours went from pinks which reminded me so much of fresh flowers to nudes that reminded me of tree barks, to greens and reds and prints that looked a lot like fire and earth.

She showcased a very beautiful collection, with a very stunning wedding dress and some pieces that any bridesmaid would wear.

I also loved the capes and the subtle way she used frills and pleats. It was net and very well-tailored. I fell in love with this collection

Mi-le worked with pastels, neon, neutrals and a few prints. I was disappointed in this collection as mile as always been a promising designer to me, it was everything from her choice of fabrics to the clusters in the designs, to the coalition of too many aesthetics that don’t seem to meet anywhere. I would say the collection was rushed because most things just look like they weren’t finished and that isn’t the mile I used to know.

The show closed on such a low note as Mi- le’s design didn’t really stun a lot of people including me, all in all it was a good first day and I could see that all everyone left the hall thinking of was what to wear the next day.

My best designer for Day 1 was no doubt Funke Adepoju, but I liked Kenneth Ize, Maxivive, Grey, Tiffany Amber as well.

Did you attend? do you agree or disagree? do let me know.