3 Basic Decisions to Make Before You Apply Eyeliner


1. Choose Your Colors Carefully

One of the most beautiful things about eyeliner is how it adds depth to your lashes and makes them appear thicker. For best results, choose shades of dark brown, gray, deep plum, or black for the upper lid. For the lower lash line, use a softer variation of the same shade. Stay away from brightly colored or pastel eyeliners! They tend to draw attention to the color rather than to your lashes.

2. Use a Powder, Pencil, Gel, Cream, or Liquid Eyeliner

What type of eyeliner you use is purely a personal choice. Each has pros and cons you need to know before shopping:

  • Powder eyeshadow works well as eyeliner as long as you use a small, fine-tip pointed brush so you can be precise. Using powder eyeshadow as your eyeliner can achieve a softer look than you can with other types of liners. You can use the powder shadow either wet (for a more dramatic effect) or dry (for a softer look). Be sure to tap any excess powder off the brush before lining; that reduces the risk of getting specks of powder eyeshadow on your cheek.
  • Pencil eyeliners tend to smear and smudge, unless you find a really good one that isn't too creamy or too slick ). Opt for a retractable pencil versus one that requires sharpening. After applying the pencil eyeliner, apply a small amount of eyeshadow or pressed powder over it to help keep it from smearing. Pencil eyeliners tend to have the shortest wear time, so applying powder over it can help quite a bit.
  • Gel or cream-to-powder eyeliners offer superb application and deep color payoff. The main complaints are (1) that you have to wash the brush applicator after every use to prevent the gel or cream from hardening on the brush hairs and (2) that the look is too intense. If you don't find those to be problems, then gel and cream eyeliners are an excellent way to go. Because they don't smear, they are especially great for anyone with oily eyelids or for use in humid climates.
  • Liquid eyeliner is the most dramatic and, typically, the most difficult to apply. It takes a steady hand, but it also offers the most precise and defined line. Look for liquid liner that comes with a thin, fine-point or felt-tip brush for impressive results! If you make a mistake with liquid liner, wait for it to dry, remove it with a cotton swab dipped in makeup remover, and try again.

3. Determine if You Want a Thick or Thin Line

As a general rule, the thickness and intensity of the eyeliner should correlate with the size of your eyelid—the larger the eyelid area, the thicker yet softer the eyeliner should be. The smaller the eyelid area, the thinner and more intense the liner should be. If your eyelid doesn't show at all, you might want to consider forgetting about lining altogether. Instead, use a neutral deep eyeshadow shade to shape your eye (lid and crease area) and use an eyelash curler and several coats of mascara to define your eyes.

How to Apply Eyeliner

If you don't have a steady hand, bend down or sit down so you can place your elbow on a table or counter for balance and control. Some makeup artists suggest dotting eyeliner along the base of your lashes, others prefer to use one fluid stroke, following the curvature of the eye. Both methods can provide beautiful results and can be combined for an even more dramatic look.

Application Tips for the Upper Lash Line:

  • Apply eyeliner as close to the lash line as possible, and place it between each and every eyelash. It's best to apply liner after your eyeshadow to create a defined, solid line. It's also best to use a magnifying mirror so you can be sure you get the liner between each eyelash. This is a time-consuming process, but the effect is sensational!
  • To start, keep the line as thin as possible. If you desire a thicker line, you can always build up to it, but it's much easier to add liner than it is to remove what's already there.
  • If the outer corners of your eyes droop, make sure the eyeliner turns up ever-so-slightly. This will create a more youthful look that de-emphasizes the downturned corners.
  • To add drama, line the outer corner more thickly. Start with a thin line on the inner corner of the lash line and gradually make it thicker toward the back third of the lid for an attractive, classic look.
  • Do not extend the liner much past the outer corner of your eye and don't hug the teardrop area of the eye. It's OK if the line goes just slightly beyond the corner of your eye, but much more than that makes it look too theatrical.

Application Tips for the Lower Lash Line:

  • Line only the outer two-thirds of the eye. Leaving some space unlined on the inside corner of your eye gives a softer, less severe look. For a more dramatic look, you can line all the way across, but be careful because this doesn't look good on everyone.
  • Make sure that the eyeliner on the lower lash line connects with the back corner of the upper lash line. This creates a more natural, cohesive look.
  • Apply a thin, soft line. Heavy liner on the lower lash line ends up looking like your mascara has smeared.

6 Major Eyeliner Mistakes to Avoid

  1. Don't overdo eyeliner. It should blend well with the rest of your eye-makeup design, not overpower it.
  2. Avoid lining the inside rim of the lids, the area between the lashes and the eye itself. That kind of application looks good only for about an hour or two; after that, it smears and goops up into the corner of the eye, creating a messy, unattractive look. As you might suspect, it's also unhealthy for the cornea when it happens on a regular basis.
  3. Don't apply thick eyeliner to small or close-set eyes. It will only exaggerate the smallness or closeness.
  4. Avoid applying a complete circle of eyeliner around the eye. Circling all the way around your eye can make it look like you're wearing eyeglasses, emphasizing the eyeliner more than the eye itself.
  5. Don't overblend your eyeliner onto the skin under the lower lash line. That will make dark circles look worse.
  6. Don't apply mascara before you apply eyeliner. For best results, always apply your mascara after you apply your eyeshadow and eyeliner. This way you're less likely to overdo the mascara to compensate for a lack of depth and definition along the lash line. It also prevents you from disturbing the mascara and subsequently causing it to flake.
Xo
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